'A golden mystery… a beautiful winking wonder that blazed in the sun,' wrote Rudyard Kipling of Shwedagon Pagoda. More than a century later, the description still fits. This is the most iconic landmark in the country, and it is at its most extraordinary in the soft light of early morning or at sunset.
We begin at the east entrance, where the Bahan market sells Buddhist souvenirs and ceremonial offerings. The crowd is a mix of local shoppers and pilgrims, many of whom have travelled great distances to pay homage here.
A spire of jewels
The 99-metre stupa is thought to have been a place of worship for some 2,500 years, ranking among the most important Buddhist sites on earth. Its golden spire is studded with around 85,000 jewels and crowned with a 76-carat diamond; relics of four previous Buddhas are said to be enshrined within.
Up on the platform, you circle clockwise past smaller shrines and ancient artwork. But the real pleasure is simply being among people at prayer — and falling into conversation with a monk about Buddhism, the city, and daily life. Remember to remove your shoes, and to dress modestly.
